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Pada awal di Eropa terjadi perubahan secara terus-menerus dan semakin cepat dalam gaya pakaian dapat dikatakan cukup andal. Sejarawan, termasuk James Laver dan Fernand Braudel , tanggal dimulainya mode Barat dalam pakaian hingga pertengahan abad ke-14, 12 13 meskipun mereka cenderung sangat bergantung pada citra kontemporer 14 dan naskah yang diterangi tidak umum sebelum abad keempat belas. 15 Perubahan awal yang terjadi paling dramatis dalam vogue adalah pemendekan drastis yang mendadak dan pengetatan garmen berlebih pada pria dari panjang betis menjadi nyaris menutupi bokong, 16 dan juga tak jarang disertai dengan isian di bagian dada agar terlihat lebih berisi. Hal ini menciptakan garis Barat khas dari atasan yang disesuaikan dan dikenakan di atas legging atau celana panjang.
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